Brake system repair help

[ebake02]

I replaced my front brake pads and rotors with Powerstop ceramic pads and drilled and slotted rotors. Not long after, I noticed that the right front rotor was getting really hot. I assumed and the rotor was sticking and I had it replaced. My problem is that rotor is still getting really hot. I'm totally confused and have no idea why it's still getting hot. I know the brake fluid is pretty crummy and worn out, would a brake system flush fix the problem?

[Rick]

I replaced my front brake pads and rotors with Powerstop ceramic pads and drilled and slotted rotors. Not long after, I noticed that the right front rotor was getting really hot. I assumed and the rotor was sticking and I had it replaced. My problem is that rotor is still getting really hot. I'm totally confused and have no idea why it's still getting hot. I know the brake fluid is pretty crummy and worn out, would a brake system flush fix the problem?

It could be that you need to replace your rear brakes too. It sounds like the front brakes are doing all the work.

[slucero]

4 wheel disc?

front disc, rear drum?

car make?

[yulog]

Is the car pulling to the right?
any squealing/squeaking noted?

[ebake02]

2001 Chevy Malibu, doesn't pull either direction and there's no squeaking or noise. It has front disc and rear drum, rear brakes were replaced about 6 months ago. The guy at Autozone said it could be a collapsed brake line. The pads don't smoke or anything either, the rotor just gets really hot.

[slucero]

2001 Chevy Malibu, doesn't pull either direction and there's no squeaking or noise. It has front disc and rear drum, rear brakes were replaced about 6 months ago. The guy at Autozone said it could be a collapsed brake line. The pads don't smoke or anything either, the rotor just gets really hot.

Have the brake fluid changed and the brakes re-bled. NEW fluid all the way through... If that doesn't solve it its likely something else like the master cylinder or proportioning valve...

[cudaclan]

“I'm totally confused and have no idea why it's still getting hot”

I gather the problem was there previously? I trust the rotation of the slots is in the correct rotation as well.

Start with a non-intrusive way of diagnostics. The sales representative gave you very good advice. To diagnose the problem you will need brake fluid (you will lose some and will need to replenish it with the diagnostics.

The side that is suspected of giving you the problem:

Back-off the bleeder screw (do not remove) to allow brake fluid to release. Ensure that no debris has lodged in the screw. If this is the first time, you may have a rubber plug covering the screw (good thing). Have someone press on the brake pedal so that you can observe a good stream from the bleeder. It is advisable to have the vehicle running (power brake assist). You may not need to remove the tire, turn the wheel “locked” so that you can access. Do not allow the person to release the brake pedal (let off) until you close the bleeder screw. If you do not follow this to the T, you will draw air into the system and you will need to bleed the system.

Note if you shear or snap off the bleeder screw, the caliper will need to be replaced.

If you have a strong stream and the operator of the brake pedal states “the pedal just went to the floor”, it is not the flex-hose. In layman’s term, there is no plaque blocking the artery.

The next area I would examine is the caliper sliding pins and bushings. These components enable the caliper to “float” inboard, out upon release, and apply of the brake pedal. A high temperature synthetic lubricant is used to ensure smooth operation.

Lastly, it can be your caliper is “locking-up”. I would replace them in pairs for even braking. Of course, you will now need to bleed and flush the brake system. YouTube is a good resource.

[The Sushi Hunter]

The front brakes usually do 75% to 85% of the stopping on most vehicles. Jack up the front corner of the vehicle that has the wheel that is overheating and once the wheel is completely off the ground, try and spin the wheel by hand. Does it spin freely or is it binding? If it's rubbing on something, find out what it's rubbing on, such as the rotor rubbing on the inside of the caliper? You really need to know if the aftermarket parts that you have installed on your car are compatible with your specific vehicle. If you change the rotors to some other type, in most cases you will need to also change the calipers to a pair that are compatible with the new rotor specifications. You may need to bring it to a brake specialist to find out what the problem and solution is, before damage or accident occurs. If it's heating up above normal, this could lead to other larger issues such as damage to other brake system components and catastrophic brake failure.

BTW: Autozone along with all of thoes other autochain stores is not a very good place at all to get sound advice for your vehicle or any other vehicle. Doing so is like walking into a Home Depot and asking someone stocking the shelves how to build a house. You will get better information tapping into an online forum specific to the make and model of the car your working on with owners who know the car inside and out from lessons learned. If you don't want to do that, go to the Chevy dealership. At least they are familiar with your car there. Seriously it sounds like the place you bought the rotors from just sold you something without knowing if it is compatible with the rest of the brake system on your car.

[ebake02]

I'll give that stuff a try, although my first task is to drain some of the brake fluid. The dipshit at Monro put way too much in the reservoir, it's at least an inch over the max line. Dumbass...

[The Sushi Hunter]

I'll give that stuff a try, although my first task is to drain some of the brake fluid. The dipshit at Monro put way too much in the reservoir, it's at least an inch over the max line. Dumbass...

Was it filled by Monro before or after you changed the rotors?

[ebake02]

I'll give that stuff a try, although my first task is to drain some of the brake fluid. The dipshit at Monro put way too much in the reservoir, it's at least an inch over the max line. Dumbass...

Was it filled by Monro before or after you changed the rotors?

Honestly, I have no idea. I didn't think to check it after my mechanic in town changed the pads and rotors. I going to siphon some of it out tomorrow and see what happens.

[The Sushi Hunter]

I'll give that stuff a try, although my first task is to drain some of the brake fluid. The dipshit at Monro put way too much in the reservoir, it's at least an inch over the max line. Dumbass...

Was it filled by Monro before or after you changed the rotors?

Honestly, I have no idea. I didn't think to check it after my mechanic in town changed the pads and rotors. I going to siphon some of it out tomorrow and see what happens.

Reaons I'm asking is because when they put on the new pads and rotors, the piston in the calipers had to be pressed back into the calipers so the new rotor and pads would fit within the calipers. If they backed the piston into the caliper with a special hand tool, the fluid would then be shifted back up through the system and into the brake fluid resevoir. If the resevoir was already full before they backed the pistons back into the caliper, this would cause the fluid level to rise in the resevoir and overflow. This could explain why the brake fluid level is so high. If the fluid was relieved at the caliper while pressing in the piston, the fluid would be pushed out of the valve at the caliper and not back into the brake system. What the shop needs to do is remove the brake fluid resevoir lid and monitor the fluid level as they are pressing the caliper pistons back into the calipers. If the fluid level rises too much, they need to remove the fluid as they are doing the job.

Now if Monroe filled the fluid after the rotor and pad R&R process, then that was when it was filled too much.

The shop that did the work, thier work should be under warranty so you need to bring it back to them to fix the problem.

If you remove the brake fluid yourself, be sure not to get any fluid on the paint of the car. Brake fluid is a great paint remover. If you get any on the paint of your car, it will take the paint it right off, down to the primer or metal, depending on how much you get in any specific area.

[ebake02]

I have a feeling it was Monro who added the fluid when they replaced the caliper, I watched them bleed the system after they put the caliper on.